It was early in the morning, and Cairo was still sleeping. I did not want to leave my bed, but I had a flight to catch to Aswan, the southernmost city of Egypt.
Today is only my third day in Egypt. I spent one day in Giza and one day in Cairo. As crazy as it might sound to you, I am heading towards this southernmost city of Egypt.
Since my childhood, I had read about the River Nile. I learned that Aswan is the best place in Egypt to truly witness its beauty. I was right—the Nile here is a vibrant, stunning blue. But getting around Aswan wasn’t as easy as I thought.
I took a taxi from the front gate of my hotel in Cairo. A staff of the hotel was kind enough to assist me. When I approached my fleet, my tiredness disappeared. I witnessed an amazing colorful sky.
If you are planning an Aswan itinerary, here are the best things to do, where to stay, and the scams you need to avoid.
Arriving in Aswan: The Airport Taxi Scam
In just over an hour, I arrived at Aswan airport from Cairo. I needed to get to my hotel on the West Bank. Because Uber wasn’t working, I took a local taxi from the airport.
The driver welcomed me with a smile, but soon started aggressively trying to sell me package tours. When I declined, the “scam” started.
Instead of dropping me at the public ferry terminal (which costs $0.15 to cross the river), he took me to a private jetty where his friends demanded $20 for a 2-minute boat ride. They lied and told me there was no other way across. In utter disappointment, I grabbed my bags, walked away, and eventually found the public ferry myself.
It was a terrible start of the day. At last, after speaking to several people, I could find the right place. I spent $0.15 to cross the river instead of $25.
How to Avoid This: Do not rely on hailing a taxi at the Aswan airport; the touts are exhausting. Save your energy and pre-book a Private Aswan Airport Transfer before your journey. A driver will hold a sign with your name and take you straight to the correct ferry terminal with zero haggling.
East Bank vs. West Bank: Where to Stay
Aswan is divided by the River Nile.
- The East Bank: Busy, noisy, filled with markets, the train station, and large luxury hotels.
- The West Bank: Quiet, remote, and filled with colorful Nubian villages. The people here have a distinct, beautiful culture influenced by nearby Sudan.
I stayed on the West Bank because I love tranquility. I chose the Nubian Holiday House Aswan, a boutique guesthouse with a wonderful rooftop overlooking the Nile.
🛏️ Top Hotel Recommendations for Aswan
| Hotel Name | Location | Vibe | Check Rates |
| Sofitel Legend Old Cataract | East Bank | Luxury/Historic. Where Agatha Christie wrote Death on the Nile! | Check on Agoda |
| Obelisk Nile Hotel Aswan | East Bank | Mid-Range. Great pool and right on the corniche. | Check on Booking.com |
| Nubian Holiday House | West Bank | Budget/Authentic. Where I stayed! Quiet, homemade food. | Check on Trip.com |
Day 1: Exploring Aswan & The River Nile
The Temple of Philae
The Temple of Philae is arguably the most beautiful temple in Aswan, situated on an island. It was dedicated to Osiris and Isis.
Getting there on a budget was a challenge. You have to negotiate a taxi to the Marina Philae Temple, and then negotiate a boat ride to the island. I was traveling solo and the boat prices were out of my budget.
Fortunately, I saw a tour group from Iran about to cross the river. I went up to their guide and begged to hitchhike on their boat. Skeptical at first, they smiled and let me join them! The temple’s intricacies and history were absolutely mind-blowing.
Having reached the pier, I waited for a while. Suddenly, I saw a group of people were about to cross the river – they were on a guided tour. I went to them and requested to take me with them. Skeptical at first, the leader of the group gave me a nod. And I was so happy and relieved – I wanted to yell out loud in joy! I later found that the group came from Iran.
Philae was said to be one of the burial places of Osiris, the God of fertility, agriculture, the afterlife, the dead, resurrection, life, and vegetation.
In two hours, I was done with seeing the complex and its intricacies. I came back to my taxi with the group.
I came back to the hotel to take my bag. A train was waiting for me to take me further – to the city of Luxor.
I said goodbye to the river Nile in Aswan and started walking to the train station.
🎟️ Pro Tip: If you aren’t lucky enough to hitchhike with a tour group, the logistics of getting to Philae can be stressful. I highly recommend booking a Guided Philae Temple Tour with Boat Ride Included to save yourself the headache.
Roaming around in the West Bank
All my fatigue and bitter memories disappeared when my boat started its journey – a gusty wind along with the blueness of the Nile. My long-cherished dream of seeing the Nile came true.
I liked the calmness of the West Bank. It seemed to me, there were hardly any people out there.
Most of the people in Aswan were black in complexion and had thick lips which were a change from the people of Capital. Later, I learned that the border of Sudan is nearby and it had an influence because of that.
I stayed in Nubian Holiday House Aswan. I got an enjoyable view of the other side (East Bank) from my room. There was a rooftop, too, at my perusal.
Sunset on the River Nile (Felucca Ride)
All my fatigue disappeared when I finally got on the Nile. The gusty wind and the deep blueness of the water were everything I had dreamed of.
During the late afternoon, I highly recommend booking a traditional Felucca (sailboat) ride. The contrast of the blue water against the golden sand dunes of the West Bank during sunset will give you absolute inner peace.
After the sunset, I came to my hotel and ordered my dinner. The restaurant was at the rooftop; it was a homely setting with a cushion. The East bank was colorful. The moon was glittering, and the food was tasty (as always in Egypt).
Day 2: The Magnificent Abu Simbel
If there is one massive regret from my Aswan itinerary, it is not visiting Abu Simbel.
Located about 280 kilometers south of Aswan near the Sudanese border, this remote site is considered the pinnacle of ancient Egyptian architectural achievement. Because it is a 3.5 to 4-hour drive through the Nubian desert, you must dedicate a full day to this trip.
The 4:00 AM Departure
Most tours depart Aswan between 4:00 AM and 5:00 AM. While the early wake-up call is brutal, it allows you to beat the worst of the desert heat and arrive while the morning light perfectly illuminates the temple facades.+1
What You Will See
The complex consists of two jaw-dropping temples carved directly into the mountainside:
- The Great Temple of Ramses II: Guarded by four colossal 20-meter (66-foot) statues of the Pharaoh, this temple was designed to intimidate Egypt’s southern neighbors and honor the sun gods. In a true architectural miracle, the temple is aligned so that twice a year (February 22 and October 22), the morning sun penetrates the dark inner sanctuary to illuminate the statues inside.+1
- The Temple of Hathor (Nefertari): Built for Ramses II’s favorite wife, Queen Nefertari. This temple is incredibly unique because the statues of the Queen on the facade are exactly the same height as the Pharaoh—a rare show of equality in ancient Egypt.+1.
The UNESCO Relocation Miracle
Perhaps the most fascinating fact about Abu Simbel is that it moved. In the 1960s, the construction of the Aswan High Dam created Lake Nasser, which threatened to drown the temples completely. In a massive $40 million rescue operation led by UNESCO, the entire complex was cut into massive 20 to 30-ton blocks, moved 65 meters higher, and painstakingly reassembled.+1
How to Book Your Trip:
Because of the remote location and military checkpoints, you cannot easily drive yourself. You must go with a tour or hired driver.
- Full-Day Abu Simbel Shared Tour from Aswan (Best for Budget Travelers)
- Private Abu Simbel Tour with Car (Best for Families/Groups)
Summary of things to see in Aswan
Places to visit in Aswan
- River Nile
- Temple of Philae
- Aswan city center
- Unfinished obelisk (I didn’t get a chance to go there)
- Abu Simbel (If you have an extra day in hand, it’s a long day trip)
Where to eat
After figuring out the $0.15 public ferry, I went to the East Bank for lunch.
I highly recommend a restaurant called “El Masry“. The food is incredibly authentic, plentiful, and very budget-friendly. I had an amazing platter of local Egyptian meats, rice, and salads.
Practical Tips for Aswan (2026 Update)
Crossing the River: Do not take an expensive private motorboat. Ask locals for the “Public Ferry” (National Ferry). It costs pennies and runs constantly between the East and West Banks.
Onward Travel to Luxor: You can easily go to Luxor from Aswan by train. Go to the train station on the East Bank to buy a ticket directly, or use [Trip.com / 12Go] to book your seat online in advance.
Connectivity: If you don’t have internet to navigate or check currency conversions, make sure you download an [Egypt e-SIM] before you arrive.
Public Ferry during Sunset: River Nile looks beautiful during sunset. You can take a short cruise if your budget allows. If you are backpacking, hop into a public boat during sunset, you will get a feeling of how it tastes.
Planning Your Egypt Trip?
Make sure to check out my other detailed guides to build the perfect trip:
- The Ultimate 7-Day Egypt Itinerary (Start Here!)
- Cairo 1-Day Guide
- Giza Pyramids Guide
- Luxor 2-Day Guide
FAQ
You absolutely need 2 full days. Dedicate Day 1 to Aswan’s local sights (Philae Temple, Felucca ride, West Bank) and dedicate Day 2 entirely to the Abu Simbel day trip.
Extremely safe. The Nubian people are incredibly hospitable and kind.
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