An Authentic Egyptian Dinner: My Homestay Experience in Luxor

It was my fifth day backpacking through Egypt, and I was staying in a local homestay on the West Bank of Luxor. I took a quick shower to sober up after a full day of exploring the Valley of the Kings. Then, I ran downstairs, where a man about the same height as me was waiting.

We hopped into a packed local minivan (a “human hauler”). I knew why I was going with him, but I did not have any clue about the name of our destination. I settled myself among locals wearing long traditional galabeyas, listening to them gossip in Arabic. Whenever someone got off, a new passenger immediately took their place.

At one stage, my companion asked the driver to stop. We got out into the cold and darkness.

I was in an unfamiliar village in the West Bank of Luxor, 500 kilometers away from the capital city of Cairo, with a practically unknown man.

A Walk in the Dark

All my concentration focused on this single person moving through the pale light of the alleys. I couldn’t afford to lose him now.

He started talking to me in English with a heavy Arabic accent. He had wrinkles on his face, a two-day beard, and wore a grayish galabeya. I am a swift walker, but I found it tough to maintain his pace.

“How far are we?” I couldn’t resist asking. “We are almost here,” he responded.

I had been receiving that exact response for the last 20 minutes!

He seemed least worried about reaching the destination and much keener on telling his stories. We were taking shortcuts, passing through the narrow passageways between other people’s homes. At times, the darkness entirely engulfed us, and I had to use the flashlight on my mobile phone to see the pathways. (If you ever wondered why on earth they put a flashlight on the back of a phone, ask me, I now have the answer).

Overcoming Travel Anxiety

I had mixed feelings about Egypt up to this point. As much as I admired this remarkable country, the relentless haggling and touts on the tourist streets kept me constantly on my toes.

So, when I received a dinner invitation from Ismael, the owner of my homestay, I was doubtful. You can consider me mean or dispute my openness, but I am being candid. Looking back, I feel embarrassed about my hesitation.

I had booked his guesthouse online, which was co-managed by Marion (an Irish expat who fell in love with Egypt and helps locals list their properties). Now, I was walking to Ismael’s actual family home in the dark.

An Authentic Egyptian Dinner on the Floor

I finally arrived at his home—a modest house, cramped with objects. Two baby girls greeted me with the purest smiles. They were shy at first, but incredibly inquisitive. Once they became comfortable, they used me as a trial ground to practice the English they were learning at the local school!

Marion joined us for dinner, and I decided to show off my skills in Arabic.

Here is a silly tale: I am from Bangladesh, where we speak Bengali and learn English. However, because we are a predominantly Muslim country, we are taught to read the Arabic alphabet during childhood so we can recite the Quran. We can read the letters perfectly, but we don’t actually understand what the words mean in conversational Arabic!

When I proudly recited some Arabic phrases to Ismael’s family, the result backfired dangerously. They completely stopped speaking English and started talking to me entirely in rapid-fire Arabic!

Sharing the Plate

We sat on a rug on the floor. There were no chairs or dining tables, as it is customary here to dine on the floor.

Instead of serving individual portions, Ismael brought out an enormous, shared plate. It is an Arab cultural tradition to eat food together from a single massive platter to increase family bonding and teach the value of sharing.

We used our hands to eat baked bread, lentils, french fries, pumpkins, and fresh cucumbers and tomatoes. I was not used to eating such massive pieces of bread, but I did not want to leave my host disappointed, so I devoured everything!

The Real Egypt

I had been dining in restaurants since I landed in Egypt, assuming Egyptian food was strictly lamb kebabs and roasted pigeon. Now, I realized what a typical family in a Luxor village actually eats. It was modest, but diverse and deeply comforting.

The clock didn’t stop ticking, and Ismael eventually had to walk me back to my apartment. I took some pictures with the girls, gave my Salaams, and left.

I ate more expensive and exquisite foods during my trip, but I will never forget the dinner I had that night. It reminded me that humans all over the world are kind-hearted. It doesn’t matter how different we look or what language we speak; deep down, we are all the same.

I experienced many wonderful monuments in Egypt, but the only thing missing was a genuine human connection. That night, Egypt did not deprive me of it. I found love in Egypt.

How to Experience a Homestay in Luxor

If you want to escape the massive, crowded tourist resorts and experience genuine Egyptian hospitality, I highly recommend staying in a locally owned guesthouse on the West Bank of Luxor.

Here are four highly-rated, authentic homestays you can easily book online:

• West Bank Guest House – Incredible local hospitality, homemade breakfasts, and budget-friendly.
• Villa Nile House Luxor – A beautiful local stay featuring a garden oasis and traditional architecture.
• Sylvie Guest House – A highly-rated, quiet retreat located right near the Valley of the Kings.
• Ismaels House – Where I stayed.

Planning Your Egypt Trip?

Make sure to check out my other detailed guides to build the perfect trip:

• The Ultimate 7-Day Egypt Itinerary (Start Here!)
• Cairo 1-Day Guide
• Giza Pyramids Guide
• Aswan 2-Day Guide
• Luxor 2-Day Guide