Most people picture Venice in summer. Sunshine on the Grand Canal. Gondolas packed three deep. Gelato in every other hand. I visited in the second week of November. The fog had settled over the lagoon the way it apparently does every year around that time — thick, low, and completely indifferent to any plans you might have had for golden hour photography. The city...
I had spent two days in Venice walking through fog, photographing Gothic palazzi emerging ghostlike from the mist, and getting genuinely lost in alleys that seemed to lead only to other alleys. Venice in November is extraordinary but it is also relentlessly grey. Then I took a 45-minute vaporetto ride northeast across the lagoon, and the colour hit me like walking...