If someone had blindfolded me on my first evening in Cairns and left me on a street corner with every sign covered, I don’t think I could have told them I was in Australia. That’s not a complaint. It’s the single most interesting thing about the place, and it took me until my second day here to actually admit it to myself. I’d flown in from...
Cairns punches above its size for a city built around one purpose: getting you to the Great Barrier Reef. The Esplanade alone has three Crystalbrook-branded five-stars within a few blocks of each other, a Pullman on either side of the CBD, and a lagoon pool standing in for the beach the city itself doesn’t have. Up the coast, Palm Cove does the beach properly...
The mosquitoes found me before the tree did. I was standing under a strangler fig that had been alive for something like 500 years, and all I could think about was my ankles. That was the first ten minutes of a full day on the Atherton Tablelands, the highland plateau that sits an hour or two inland from Cairns, cool where the coast is humid, green in a completely...
Kuranda Koala Gardens sits inside the Heritage Markets, a short walk from either the Skyrail terminal or the railway station, and it’s easy to underestimate from the outside. It’s small. But small, in this case, means something closer to a working wildlife sanctuary than a sprawling zoo, and that shapes the whole visit. It’s well kept, it’s...
There’s a particular kind of decision fatigue that hits the moment you start researching Kuranda from Cairns. Cable car or train? Which one first? Do you need a car? I went through all of it before landing on the combination that turned out to be exactly right: Skyrail up, a wander through Kuranda village in between, and the Kuranda Scenic Railway back down...